Kiev , "The Mother of Russian Cities" |
We looked for the Cossacks and finally found them. Our two week cruise on Europe's third largest river was billed as "In the Footsteps of the Cossacks". We started at Kiev, the capital city of Ukraine, and went down the Dnieper River about six hundred miles to the Black Sea, and Crimea.
We expected some spectacular scenery, beautiful cathedrals but were taken aback by the number of historic monuments commemorating Ukrainian and Russian and Cossack heroes over the centuries of warfare this part of the world has so frequently endured. As one guide told us, War is very important to our country.
Time after time, the various local guides would talk of the 80% destruction their own city suffered during World War II. Sixty thousand people died during the war in one small town, 250 thousand in another. Hundreds of thousands were taken away to labor camps, most never to be seen again. The numbers of deaths were staggering.
While World War II was devastating, it wasn't the first. Ukraine has been fought over for many centuries. The Mongols destroyed Kiev and other cities seven hundred years ago. Other tribes and nations have plundered and destroyed. The history of this proud country is steeped in warfare and unbelievable suffering.
But, those monuments to violent times aside, we saw lots of people going about their daily lives. They want to put their many troubles behind them. It won't be easy; they have much work ahead. One expert predicted it would take five generations - 100 years - for them to overcome the problems of the past 90 years since the Bolsheviks took over and Communism came in. But we saw some very strong people, young and old, at work and play. There is much hope for the future of the Ukrainian people. And we wish them the very best.
One of many dramatic memorials we'll be seeing in every stop we made. This one honors the Ukrainian and Russian seamen who gave their lives in so many past wars.
Our guide Anna was with us every step of the way. 
High on a hill above the port is the spectacular St. Andrews Cathedral where we attended a concert on our last night in Ukraine.
Vendors, vendors everywhere we went.
Have you ever heard of Bogdan Khmelnitski? He was a Cossack leader who led an uprising against Poland, the dominant country at that time. A Polish nobleman burned Bogdan's house, killed one of his children, and made off with his girl friend. Enraged, Bogdan gathered a small army of Cossacks and Tartars and defeated a much larger force. He found his girl friend, married her, and brought her home. Poland sued for peace and gave the Cossacks eastern Ukraine including Kiev. All because that Polish gentleman stole his girl friend, Helen. Alas, Bogdan found out Helen was having an affair with a younger guy. Never a good loser, he had both stripped naked, lashed together, and hanged and left to dangle at the city gates.
St. Sophia's Cathedral was built in 1037, almost a thousand years ago. The Communists turned it into a museum. No, it's not leaning. There must have been a problem with the photographer.
The choir was practicing inside when we visited St. Vladimir's Cathedral. I wish you could hear their singing.
Actually this 'Cathedral' is comprised of about 80 different buildings, many of which are monasteries. Monks are buried in caves beneath several monasteries where the low temperature and lack of humidity has mummified them.
The beautiful facade of just one of those buildings. Many were built hundreds of years ago, some going back to the 11th Century. But they look so fresh and sparkling. Why? Because they are new. More than 80% of Kiev was destroyed during World War II, first by the Soviets who mined these historic sites to slow down the advancing Nazis, and then two years later by the Nazis as they retreated from the victorious Soviets. Many of the buildings here in Kiev were extensively restored in time for the city's 1500th anniversary in 1982.
This Russian tank is another reminder of the devastating World War II
The Motherland Monument towers over the Dnieper River, commemorating the friendship between Ukraine and Russia. Many people here on the western side of the river identify more with Europe, and still don't fully appreciate this gift from Russia.
This dramatic monument honors the legendary Viking founders of the city of Kiev. Our friend Dan, whose parents came from Denmark, often speculates he has Viking blood coursing through his own veins. The roots of all Russian history begin in Ukraine when Vikings called Rus arrived and conquered the local tribes. The Rus gave Russia its name.
Then it was time to leave Kiev and cruise 600 miles down the river to the Black Sea and Crimea. First off, a welcome party on the sundeck. Our next major stop will be Odessa, the Pearl of the Black Sea.
A toast to the passengers from the ship's guides who'll be showing us all around the cities and towns we'll be visiting. Some spoke English, others German and still others French.